Installation in LG DLEX4000B Owner's Manual.

Installation overview and site preparation

Before you install or move this dryer, read the installation instructions first. The manual lists these main tasks:

• Choose the proper location.
• Level the appliance.
• Vent the appliance.
• Connect the inlet hose for steam models.
• Connect the gas or electric dryer.
• For an electric dryer, purchase a UL-listed 3-wire or 4-wire power cord kit with a UL-listed strain relief.
• Plug in the power cord.
• Run the installation test and test run.
• Refer to the Test Exhaust System section for the exhaust test.

Choose the right location

The dryer location must meet several requirements:

• The appliance must have proper exhaust installation.
• A gas dryer must be exhausted to the outdoors.
• Use an individual, grounded electrical outlet located within 2 ft. (61 cm) of either side of the appliance.
• Do not install or store the appliance where it will be exposed to water and/or weather.
• Check local code requirements. Some areas limit or do not permit dryer installation in garages, mobile homes, or sleeping quarters. If you have questions, contact your local building inspector.

Garage installation

If you install the dryer in a garage, place the appliance at least 18 inches (45.7 cm) above the floor.

• The manual says the standard pedestal height is 15 inches (38 cm).
• You need 18 inches (45.7 cm) from the garage floor to the bottom of the appliance.

Ambient temperature

Install the appliance where the temperature is over 45 °F (7 °C).

If the temperature around the appliance is too low, the appliance might not shut off at the end of an automatic cycle. This can cause longer drying times.

Flooring and leveling

The dryer should be installed and leveled on a solidly constructed floor with a maximum slope of 1 inch (2.5 cm).

• If needed, adjust the leveling legs to compensate for an uneven floor.
• A sturdy floor is necessary to support the total appliance weight when loaded.
• If other appliances will be nearby, their weight should also be considered.
• If the dryer is not level, clothes may not tumble properly and automatic sensor cycles may not work correctly.

Recessed area or closet installation

The manual provides recommended clearances for recessed areas and closets.

Recommended installation spacing includes:

• Upper ventilation opening: 2 openings totaling 48 sq. in. (310 cm²)
• Lower ventilation opening: 2 openings totaling 24 sq. in. (155 cm²)
• Distance to ventilation opening: 3 in. (76 mm)
• Overhead cabinet depth: 14 in. (356 mm)
• Distance to overhead cabinet/shelf: 18 in. (457 mm)
• Front clearance: 1 in. (25 mm)
• Depth: 30 1/8 in. (765 mm)
• Back clearance: 5 in. (127 mm)
• Side clearance: 1 in. (25 mm)
• Width: 27 in. (686 mm)
• Height of cabinet opening: 39 in. (990 mm)

The manual also says additional clearances should be considered for ease of installation and servicing, and to reduce noise transfer.

Closet ventilation requirements

Closets with doors must have both upper and lower vent openings to prevent heat and moisture buildup.

• Upper vent opening: minimum 48 sq. in. (310 cm²)
• The upper opening must be installed no lower than 6 feet above the floor.
• Lower vent opening: minimum 24 sq. in. (155 cm²)
• The lower opening must be installed no more than 1 foot above the floor.
• Vent grilles may be installed in the door, or the door may be cut at the top and bottom to create openings.
• Louvered doors with equivalent ventilation openings are also acceptable.

The manual notes that there should be at least a little space around the dryer, or any other appliance, to reduce vibration transfer. Too much vibration can cause noise, contact between appliances, paint damage, and more noise.

Important: No other fuel-burning appliance can be installed in the same closet as a dryer.

Closet installation with a stacked washer and dryer

For a recessed area or closet with a stacked washer and dryer, the manual lists these clearances:

• Upper ventilation opening: 2 openings totaling 48 sq. in. (310 cm²)
• Lower ventilation opening: 2 openings totaling 24 sq. in. (155 cm²)
• Distance to ventilation opening: 3 in. (76 mm)
• Front clearance: 1 in. (25 mm)
• Back clearance: 5 1/2 in. (140 mm)
• Top clearance to the ceiling: 6 in. (152 mm)
• Height to the top of stacked appliances: 77 1/2 in. (1968 mm)
• Side clearance: 1 in. (25 mm)
• Width: 27 in. (686 mm)

The note says this height can differ depending on the washer dimensions.

Cabinet installation

For cabinet installation with a door, minimum ventilation openings in the top of the cabinet are required.

Recommended cabinet spacing includes:

• Depth of ventilation opening: 7 in. (178 mm)
• Back clearance: 5 in. (127 mm)
• Depth: 30 1/8 in. (765 mm)
• Front clearance: 1 in. (25 mm)
• Side clearance: 1 in. (25 mm)
• Width: 27 in. (686 mm)
• Clearance to top of cabinet: 9 in. (229 mm)

Before you continue

Make sure the selected location allows proper venting, access to a grounded outlet, and the clearances needed for your type of installation. Then continue with leveling, vent connection, and the rest of the installation steps.

Leveling the Dryer

Proper leveling is important for performance. The dryer must be level to help provide optimal drying performance. A perfectly level, solid floor helps minimize vibration, noise, and unwanted movement.

Before you begin - Wear long-sleeved gloves and safety glasses. - The appliance is heavy. Two or more people are required for installation. - If the dryer is being installed on the optional pedestal, use the leveling feet on the pedestal to level the appliance. The dryer’s own leveling feet should be fully retracted.

Check the level 1. Move the appliance into its final location. 2. Place a level across the top of the appliance. 3. Check that all four leveling feet rest solidly on the floor. 4. Gently push on the top corners of the appliance to make sure it does not rock from corner to corner.

Adjust the leveling feet - Use an adjustable wrench to turn the leveling feet. - Unscrew the legs to raise the appliance. - Screw in the legs to lower the appliance. - Adjust only as much as needed to make the dryer level from side to side and front to back. - Make sure all four leveling feet remain in firm contact with the floor.

Important leveling note Do not extend the leveling feet more than necessary. Extending them too far may cause the appliance to vibrate.

Reversing the Door

These instructions change the door swing from a right-side hinge to a left-side hinge. If the door has already been reversed and you need to change it back, follow the steps carefully because the left/right references will be reversed.

Before you begin - Support the door with a stool or box that fits under the door, or have another person support the door’s weight. - Avoid dropping the door. - Unplug the appliance or turn off power at the main circuit breaker before starting. - Always reverse the door before stacking the appliance on top of the washer.

Tools required - Phillips screwdriver - Large flat blade screwdriver, recommended if hinge screws are tight or the Phillips screwdriver is worn - Small flat blade screwdriver, for lifting out parts

Door reversal step shown on this page 1. Open the door. 2. Remove the 2 decorative screws, 2 latch screws, and the latch from the catch side with a screwdriver. 3. Save these parts for step 4. 4. Be sure to keep supporting the weight of the door before removing the hinge screws.

Only this first door-reversal step is shown on this page. Continue with the remaining instructions from the manual if you are completing the full door reversal.

Vent kit installation and vent routing

This dryer is configured to vent to the rear, but it can also vent to the bottom or side.

Before you begin - Wear long-sleeved gloves and safety glasses. - Use a heavy metal vent. - Do not use plastic or thin foil ducts. - Clean old ducts before installing the appliance. - Ductwork and fittings are not included and must be purchased separately. - If you want to change the vent location, an adapter kit, part number 383EEL9001B, may be purchased from your LG retailer. - Right-side venting is not available on gas models.

Important venting rules - Gas dryers must exhaust to the outdoors. - Do not vent into an enclosed or unventilated area, such as an attic, wall, ceiling, crawl space, chimney, gas vent, or concealed space of a building. - Do not exceed the recommended duct length limits. - Do not crush or collapse ductwork. - Do not let ductwork rest on or contact sharp objects. - If you connect to existing ductwork, make sure it is suitable and clean before installing the dryer. - Venting must conform to local building codes. - Use only 4-inch (10.2 cm) rigid, semi-rigid, or flexible metal ductwork inside the dryer cabinet and for venting outside. - The exhaust duct must be 4 inches (10.2 cm) in diameter and have no obstructions. - Keep the exhaust duct as short as possible. - Use rigid, semi-rigid, or flexible metal ducting between the dryer and the wall. All non-rigid metal transition duct must be UL-listed. - Do not use sheet metal screws or other fasteners that extend into the duct and could catch lint. Secure all joints with duct tape. - The vent hood should have hinged dampers to prevent backdraft when the dryer is not in use. - When pushing the dryer into place, do not crush or collapse the ductwork.

Flexible duct limit - The total length of flexible metal duct must not exceed 8 ft. (2.4 m).

Maximum rigid duct length The maximum length of 4-inch diameter rigid metal duct depends on the wall cap and the number of 90° elbows.

For the recommended 4-inch wall cap: - 0 elbows: 65 ft. (19.8 m) - 1 elbow: 55 ft. (16.8 m) - 2 elbows: 47 ft. (14.3 m) - 3 elbows: 36 ft. (11.0 m) - 4 elbows: 28 ft. (8.5 m)

For the 2.5-inch wall cap, use only for short run installations: - 0 elbows: 55 ft. (16.8 m) - 1 elbow: 47 ft. (14.3 m) - 2 elbows: 41 ft. (12.5 m) - 3 elbows: 30 ft. (9.1 m) - 4 elbows: 22 ft. (6.7 m)

Notes: - Deduct 6 ft. (1.8 m) for each additional elbow. - Do not use more than four 90° elbows.

Side venting 1. Remove the rear exhaust duct retaining screw and pull out the exhaust duct. 2. Press the tabs on the knockout and carefully remove the knockout for the desired vent opening. Right-side venting is not available on gas models. 3. Press the adapter duct onto the blower housing and secure it to the base of the dryer as shown. 4. Preassemble a 4" (10.2 cm) elbow to the next 4" (10.2 cm) duct section, and secure all joints with duct tape. 5. Make sure the male end of the elbow faces away from the dryer. 6. Insert the elbow/duct assembly through the side opening and press it onto the adapter duct. 7. Secure it in place with duct tape. 8. Make sure the male end of the duct protrudes 1.5" (3.8 cm) so it can connect to the remaining ductwork. 9. Attach the cover plate to the back of the dryer with the included screw.

Bottom venting 1. Remove the rear exhaust duct retaining screw. 2. Pull out the exhaust duct. 3. Press the adapter duct onto the blower housing and secure it to the base of the dryer as shown. 4. Insert the 4" (10.2 cm) elbow through the rear opening and press it onto the adapter duct. 5. Be sure the male end of the elbow faces down through the hole in the bottom of the dryer. 6. Secure it in place with duct tape. 7. Attach the cover plate to the back of the dryer with the included screw.

Routing and connecting ductwork - Follow the guidance above to maximize drying performance and reduce lint buildup and condensation. - Incorrect or inadequate exhaust systems are not covered by the dryer warranty. - Dryer failures or service required because of such exhaust systems will not be covered by the dryer warranty. - Use as few elbow joints as possible. - The male end of each section of exhaust duct must point away from the dryer. - Insulate ductwork that runs through unheated areas to reduce condensation and lint buildup on duct surfaces.

Duct material notes by country - In Canada, only foil-type flexible ducts, if any, specifically identified for use with the appliance by the manufacturer should be used. - In the United States, only foil-type flexible ducts, if any, specifically identified for use with the appliance by the manufacturer and that comply with the Outline for Clothes Dryer Transition Duct, Subject 2158A, should be used.

Gas dryer connection and gas supply requirements

Read this section before connecting the dryer to gas. Installation and service must be performed by a qualified installer, service agency, or the gas supplier.

Important safety requirements

• Do not attempt to disassemble the dryer. Disassembly requires the attention and tools of an authorized and qualified service technician or company.
• Do not use an open flame to check for gas leaks. Use a noncorrosive leak detection fluid.
• Gas dryers must exhaust to the outdoors.
• All gas connections must follow local codes and regulations.

Gas supply limits and piping requirements

• Gas pressure must not exceed:
• 10.5-inch (26.7 cm) water column for natural gas (NG)
• 13-inch (33.1 cm) water column for LP gas
• If the gas supply system is pressure-tested at pressures greater than 3.5 kPa, isolate the dryer from the gas supply by closing its individual manual shutoff valve.
• Your laundry room must have a rigid gas supply line to the dryer.
• In the United States, an individual manual shutoff valve must be installed within 6 ft. (1.8 m) of the dryer, according to the National Fuel Gas Code ANSI Z223.1 or Canadian gas installation code CSA B149.1.
• A 1/8-inch NPT pipe plug must be installed.
• If using rigid pipe, the rigid pipe should be 0.5-inch IPS.
• If local codes and your gas supplier allow it, 3/8-inch approved tubing may be used for lengths under 20 ft. (6.1 m). For lengths over 20 ft. (6.1 m), larger tubing should be used.
• Use only a new AGA- or CSA-certified gas supply line that complies with ANSI Z21.24 / CSA 6.10, with flexible stainless steel connectors.
• Use Teflon tape or a pipe-joint compound that is insoluble in propane (LP) gas on all pipe threads.

Gas type and burner nozzle

• The dryer is configured for natural gas when shipped from the factory.
• Make sure the dryer has the correct burner nozzle for the gas type being used, either natural gas or propane gas.
• If needed, a qualified technician should install the correct nozzle and note the change on the dryer.
• For the LP nozzle kit, the manual lists part number 383EEL3002D.

Massachusetts installation note

• In the Commonwealth of Massachusetts, this product must be installed by a licensed plumber or gas fitter.
• When ball-type gas shutoff valves are used, they must be T-handle-type.
• A flexible gas connector, when used, must not exceed 3 feet.

Connecting the gas supply

1. Make sure the gas supply to the laundry room is turned OFF and the dryer is unplugged. 2. Confirm that the type of gas available in your laundry room is appropriate for the dryer. 3. Remove the shipping cap from the gas fitting at the back of the dryer. Be careful not to damage the threads of the gas connector when removing the cap. 4. Connect the dryer to the laundry room gas supply using a new flexible stainless steel connector with a 3/8-inch NPT fitting. 5. Tighten all connections securely between the dryer and the gas supply.

Leak checking

• Do not use an open flame to inspect for leaks.
• Use a noncorrosive leak detection fluid instead.
• Before tightening the connection between the gas supply and the dryer, purge the gas supply of air and sediment so the remaining air is cleared until the odor of gas is detected.

Electrical outlet reminder

• This dryer must be plugged into a 120-VAC, 60-Hz grounded outlet protected by a 15-ampere fuse or circuit breaker.
• If you have a standard 2-prong wall outlet, it is your personal responsibility to have it replaced with a properly grounded 3-prong wall outlet.

Electric dryer wiring and power cord connection

This dryer must be connected correctly before use. The manual requires a qualified electrician to check that your home wiring and fuses are adequate for the appliance.

Before you begin

• The dryer must be connected to a grounded metal, permanent wiring system, or an equipment-grounding conductor must run with the circuit conductors and connect to the appliance grounding terminal or lead.
• The appliance has its own terminal block and must be connected to a separate 240 VAC, 60-Hertz, single-phase circuit fused at 30 amperes.
• The circuit must be fused on both sides of the line.
• Do not connect this appliance to a 110-, 115-, or 120-volt circuit.
• The dryer should be connected to a 4-hole outlet.
• If the plug does not fit the outlet, a proper outlet must be installed by a qualified electrician.
• The power cord connection between the wall receptacle and the appliance terminal block is not supplied with the dryer.
• Do not modify the plug and internal wire provided with the appliance.
• Grounding through the neutral conductor is prohibited for new branch-circuit installations and in any area where local codes prohibit grounding through the neutral conductor.
• The appliance is supplied with the neutral wire grounded. This white ground wire must be moved to the neutral terminal when a 4-wire cord is used, or where grounding through the neutral conductor is prohibited.

Wire size and cord requirements

• If the branch circuit to the appliance is 15 ft. (4.5 m) or less, use UL-listed No.-10 AWG copper wire, or follow local codes.
• If the branch circuit is longer than 15 ft. (4.5 m), use UL-listed No.-8 AWG copper wire, or follow local codes.
• Allow enough slack so the appliance can be moved from its normal location when needed.
• For cord connections, use a 30-amp, 240-volt UL-listed power cord with #10 AWG minimum copper conductor.
• The cord must have closed loop or forked terminals with upturned ends.
• A UL-listed strain relief is required for cord and direct-wire installations.

Important connection rule

Connect each colored wire to the matching color screw on the terminal block. Follow the manual’s wire-to-screw matches exactly.

Four-wire power cord connection

Use this method when your installation requires a 4-wire cord.

1. Remove the terminal block access cover on the upper back of the appliance. 2. Install a UL-listed strain relief into the power cord through-hole. 3. Thread a 30-amp, 240-volt, 4-wire, UL-listed power cord with #10 AWG minimum copper conductor through the strain relief. 4. Transfer the appliance’s ground wire from behind the green ground screw to the center screw of the terminal block. 5. Attach the two hot leads of the power cord, black and red, to the outer terminal block screws. 6. Attach the neutral wire, white, to the center screw of the terminal block. 7. Attach the power cord ground wire to the green ground screw. 8. Tighten all screws securely. 9. Reinstall the terminal block access cover.

Four-wire direct wire connection

Use UL-listed 4-wire #10 AWG minimum copper conductor cable.

1. Remove 5 inches (12.7 cm) of the outer covering from the wire. 2. Remove 5 inches of insulation from the ground wire. 3. Cut off approximately 1.5 inches (3.8 cm) from the other three wires. 4. Strip 1 inch (2.5 cm) of insulation from each of the three wires. 5. Bend the ends of the three shorter wires into a hook shape. 6. Remove the terminal block access cover on the upper back of the appliance. 7. Install a UL-listed strain relief into the power-cord through-hole. 8. Thread the prepared 4-wire cable through the strain relief. 9. Transfer the appliance’s ground wire from behind the green ground screw to the center screw of the terminal block. 10. Attach the two hot leads, black and red, to the outer terminal block screws. 11. Attach the neutral wire, white, to the center screw of the terminal block. 12. Attach the ground wire to the green ground screw. 13. Tighten all screws securely. 14. Reinstall the terminal block access cover.

Three-wire power cord connection

A 3-wire connection is not permitted on new construction after January 1, 1996.

Use a 30-amp, 240-volt, 3-wire, UL-listed power cord with #10 AWG minimum copper conductor and closed loop or forked terminals with upturned ends.

1. Remove the terminal block access cover on the upper back of the appliance. 2. Install a UL-listed strain relief into the power cord through-hole. 3. Thread the 30-amp, 240-volt, 3-wire UL-listed power cord through the strain relief. 4. Attach the two hot leads, black and red, to the outer terminal block screws. 5. Attach the neutral wire, white, to the center terminal block screw. 6. Connect the external ground, if required by local codes, to the green ground screw. 7. Tighten all screws securely. 8. Reinstall the terminal block access cover.

Three-wire direct wire connection

A 3-wire connection is not permitted on new construction after January 1, 1996.

Use UL-listed 3-wire, #10 AWG minimum copper conductor cable. Allow at least 5 ft. (1.5 m) of length so the dryer can be removed and reinstalled.

1. Remove 3.5 inches (8.9 cm) of the outer covering from the wire. 2. Strip 1 inch (2.5 cm) of insulation from each wire. 3. Bend the ends of the three wires into a hook shape. 4. Remove the terminal block access cover on the upper back of the appliance. 5. Install a UL-listed strain relief into the power cord through-hole. 6. Thread the prepared 3-wire cable through the strain relief. 7. Attach the two hot leads, black and red, to the outer terminal block screws. 8. Attach the neutral wire, white, to the center terminal block screw. 9. Connect the external ground, if required by local codes, to the green ground screw. 10. Tighten all screws securely. 11. Reinstall the terminal block access cover.

After wiring

• Make sure all screws are tightened securely.
• Make sure the terminal block access cover is reinstalled.
• If local codes require it, connect the external ground.
• For any installation where the plug does not fit the outlet, have a proper outlet installed by a qualified electrician.

Quick reminders

• Use only the wire sizes and cord types listed in the manual.
• Use copper conductors only.
• Use a UL-listed strain relief.
• Follow local electrical codes as well as the National Electrical Code, ANSI/NFPA 70.
• If you are unsure about your home wiring, have a qualified electrician check it.

Connecting the Steam Water Inlet Hose

To use steam, the dryer must be connected to the cold water tap with a new water supply hose. Do not use old hoses.

Before you begin: - Make sure you have a suitable cold water faucet. - Use only new hoses for installation. - If your water supply has a lot of debris, a whole home water filter may help keep debris from reaching the dryer inlet. - Do not install or store the appliance where it may be exposed to freezing temperatures.

Important hose and water-supply limits - Check hoses regularly for cracks, leaks, and wear. - Replace hoses every five years. - Do not stretch the hoses on purpose. - Do not let hoses become pinched, crushed, or kinked. - Water supply pressure must be between 20 psi and 120 psi (138 - 827 kPa). - If water pressure is above 120 psi, a pressure reducing valve must be installed. - Do not use flood-preventing hoses with auto shut off devices. These can be tripped during filling and prevent proper filling. - If the appliance was exposed to freezing temperatures before installation, allow it to stand at room temperature for several hours before use and check for leaks before operating.

Step 1: Inspect the hoses and seals Check the threaded fitting on each hose. - Make sure a rubber seal is in place at both ends of each hose. - This helps prevent leaking.

Step 2: Connect the hoses to the faucet Connect all water supply hoses tightly by hand, then tighten another 2/3 turn with pliers.

Do not overtighten or cross-thread the fittings. Overtightening or cross-threading can damage the valves or couplings and cause leaking and property damage.

Step 3: Choose the correct installation type

Type 1: Without washer sharing the faucet Use this setup when the dryer does not share the faucet with a washing machine. 1. Connect the straight end of the long hose to the cold water faucet. 2. Connect the long dryer hose to the dryer inlet valve. Tighten it by hand, then tighten another 2/3 turn with pliers. 3. Turn on the cold water faucet.

Type 2: With washer sharing the faucet Use this setup when the dryer shares the faucet with a washing machine. 1. Shut off the cold water tap and remove the washer inlet hose. 2. Connect the short hose to the Y-connector using one of the rubber seals. 3. Connect the other end of the short hose to the cold water faucet. 4. Connect the long dryer hose to one side of the Y-connector. Connect the washer hose to the washer and the other side of the Y-connector. 5. Connect the long dryer hose to the dryer inlet valve tightly by hand, then tighten another 2/3 turn with pliers. 6. Turn on the cold water faucet.

Step 4: Flush the water line Before connecting the water line to the dryer, flush several gallons of water into a drain or bucket. This helps remove foreign particles such as sand and scale so they do not clog the dryer inlet valve.

Step 5: Check for leaks Check all hoses and Y-connectors, if used, for leaks.

If you find a leak: - Shut off the water faucet. - Remove the hose. - Check the condition of the rubber seal.

Hard water note In areas with hard water, mineral scale can build up on internal components. Using a water softener is recommended. Excessive scale buildup may eventually require part replacement or repair.

Quick checklist - New hose only, no old hoses - Rubber seals installed at both ends - Tighten by hand, then 2/3 turn with pliers - No leaks at hoses or Y-connector - Cold water faucet turned on - Hose is not pinched, crushed, or kinked - Water pressure is within the stated range

When to stop and correct the installation Stop and recheck the connection if: - The hose leaks - The fittings were overtightened or cross-threaded - The hose has no rubber seal - The water line was not flushed before connection - The hose uses an auto shut off flood-preventing device

FAQ

Q: Can I use my old water hose? A: No. The manual says to use a new water supply hose and not to reuse old hoses.

Q: How tight should the hose connections be? A: Tighten the hoses by hand, then use pliers for another 2/3 turn. Do not overtighten.

Q: What should I do if I find a leak? A: Shut off the faucet, remove the hose, and check the rubber seal.

Q: Can I use a hose with an auto shut off device? A: No. The manual says not to use flood-preventing hoses with auto shut off devices.

Q: What water pressure is allowed? A: The water supply pressure must be between 20 psi and 120 psi (138 - 827 kPa).

Q: Do I need to flush the water line first? A: Yes. The manual says to flush several gallons of water into a drain or bucket before connecting the line to the dryer.

Q: What if my home has hard water? A: The manual recommends using a water softener in areas with hard water.

Final installation checks and test run

Before using the dryer normally, make three final checks: levelness, airflow, and the installation test.

1) Check that the dryer is level Once the dryer is in its final location, recheck it to make sure it is level: - front to back - side to side - all four leveling feet should be in firm contact with the floor

2) Check airflow Good dryer performance depends on proper airflow. The manual says airflow can be checked by measuring static pressure in the exhaust duct with a manometer.

• Place the manometer on the exhaust duct about 2 ft. (60.9 cm) from the dryer
• Check the dryer while it is running with no load
• Static pressure in the exhaust duct should not exceed 0.6 inch (1.5 cm)

If the ductwork is crushed or restricted, or if there are blockages or lint buildup, airflow can be poor. The manual also notes that long exhaust runs, multiple elbows, bends, excess transition duct, or crushed transition duct can restrict airflow.

3) Run the installation test This test is meant to confirm that the exhaust system is adequate for proper operation. The appliance should be cool before you start. If it was warmed up during installation, run the Air Dry cycle for a few minutes first to lower the interior temperature.

Flow SenseTM is a sensing system that detects blockages and restrictions in the dryer ductwork. Keeping the ductwork clean and free of restrictions helps clothes dry faster and reduces energy use.

Before you start - Remove the drying rack and literature - Close the door - Do not load anything in the drum for this test, because that can affect the accuracy of the results

How to activate the installation test 1. Press and hold the Signal and Temp. buttons, then press the Power button. - On models with a glass touch control panel, press Power first, then immediately press and hold Signal and Temp. - If the activation is successful, code 1Ns will display. 2. Press Start/Pause. - The test lasts a few minutes. - Heat will turn on and the temperatures in the drum will be measured. 3. Check the display and Flow SenseTM LED when the test ends.

How to read the result - If the Flow SenseTM LED does not turn on when the cycle ends, the exhaust system is adequate. - If the Flow SenseTM LED turns on, the exhaust system is severely restricted and should be checked immediately, because performance will be poor. - Other problems may also appear as error codes. - At the end of the test cycle, ENd will display and the appliance will shut off automatically after a short delay.

If the test shows a problem If the Flow SenseTM LED turns on, check the exhaust system for restrictions and damage, then repair or replace it as needed.

The manual also says: - Do not interrupt the test cycle, or the results may be inaccurate - Even if the LED does not light during the test, some restrictions may still be present - Refer to the Venting the Dryer section for complete exhaust system and venting requirements

Error codes mentioned in this section - Ps, PF, or NP: electric dryer power cord is not connected correctly, or house power supply is incorrect. Reset the circuit breaker or replace the fuse. Do not increase the fuse capacity. If the problem is a circuit overload, have it corrected by a qualified electrician. - GAs: gas supply or service is turned off, gas model only. Confirm that the house gas shutoff and the dryer gas shutoff are both fully open. - tE1 or tEz: temperature sensor failure. Turn off the appliance and call for service. - Hs: humidity sensor failure. Turn off the appliance and call for service.

Important reminders - Make sure the ductwork is not crushed or restricted. - The installation test is for alerting you to serious problems in the home exhaust system. - The normal operating test may give more accurate information than the installation test, so the results of the two tests may not match exactly.